Denmark: Oyster Safari at the Wadden Sea

One November morning, my mom and I set off for the Wadden Sea. We had signed up for an oyster safari with Marksture, a local operator that really knows the area. Everything out there runs on the tide, because if the water doesn’t recede enough, you simply can’t reach the oyster reefs. Our original meeting point was on Rømø, but it was moved to Hjerpsted shortly before we left home, since the tidal conditions were better there.

We were a small group of about twelve people, and once the practicalities were handled, including the handout of rubber boots, oyster knives, and buckets, we walked along the coast toward the spot our guide, Jan, said would be perfect that day. The native Danish oysters disappeared from the Wadden Sea decades ago. Today the population is almost entirely Pacific oysters, which are an invasive species with no natural predators here. You don’t have to worry about taking too many, because collecting them actually helps keep the population in check and supports the balance of the ecosystem.

The seabed was a mix of sand and mud, and if you didn’t keep a quick pace, you would sink right in with your boots. Jan showed us how to take short, fast steps to avoid getting stuck. He also assured us that you wouldn’t sink deeper than about eight inches before you hit firmer ground again.

It was incredible how many oysters there were out there, so it was just a matter of filling your bucket with as many as you could carry. We had a few breaks along the way, so Jan could share little stories and demonstrate how to open oysters. He had brought snaps (Danish aquavit) and hot sauce, so anyone who wanted to taste the fresh catch could do so. The oysters were amazing out there under the open sky with the sea breeze in our faces. And if you got too enthusiastic and had too many from your bucket, it was easy to gather more before heading back.

Marksture also offers an oyster barbecue on land, but my mom does not eat oysters, so we skipped that part. Instead, we drove home with two big buckets full of fresh oysters from the Wadden Sea. A beautiful experience in a stunning setting and plenty of delicious oysters to bring home.

Thinking About Going on an Oyster Safari? Here’s What to Know

We went with Marskture.dk, but several other operators offer tours, and they all run things differently, so check the details with the one you choose and see what’s included.

With Marksture you could rent rubber boots, buy gloves, and borrow oyster knives and buckets for free. There were only a limited number of buckets available, so I recommend bringing your own.

Bring good gloves. Waterproof is ideal, but thick gardening gloves also work. Oyster shells are sharp and you can cut yourself easily.

Dress warmly. I wore a regular jacket and jeans, which turned out to be too cold. I recommend a windproof jacket and some waterproof pants at the very least, but make sure you can move comfortably. Also bring a change of clothes in the car. When your boots get stuck in the mud it’s easy to lose balance, and it’s nice to have something dry waiting for you when you get back on land.

The oysters in the Wadden Sea are of the long, slender kind, and many of them grow together in clusters or attach themselves to other mussels. Try to avoid the ones that are too fused together, because they can be very hard to open.

Marskture's Motel

If you are planning a trip to the Wadden Sea area, Marskture’s Motel is a really charming place to stay. The old tobacco drying house in Højer has been turned into a small, family friendly bed & breakfast with eight rooms, all with a private bathroom. Marskture's Motel is run by the same family that runs the Marskture excursions, and some of their oyster tours end here with a cozy oyster barbecue. If you want a comfortable and practical base close to the Wadden Sea, this is a really good pick.

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Starbucks Pumpkin Spice Latte Creamer

I’d actually taken a break from Pumpkin Spice Lattes for a while. The standard Starbucks version had just become way too sweet for me, and these days, I prefer my coffee without sugar or syrup. But a few weeks ago, I spotted Starbucks Pumpkin Spice Creamer at ACME and decided to give it a try, mostly out of curiosity and a bit of nostalgia. Turns out, it’s really really good, and yikes, now I’m hooked.

It has that same warm, spiced flavor as the classic PSL, but since you can adjust how much you add, the sweetness is entirely up to you. I make mine on the Nespresso with Starbucks Blonde capsules and 2% milk. The milk goes in the frother with a teaspoon of the creamer, and the result is so delicious. Honestly, I think it tastes even better than the original PSL.

The Pumpkin Spice Creamer is a seasonal product, and I found mine at ACME, so if you see it in stores, grab it while it’s available. You can also make your own version with pumpkin spice syrup, just add a few drops to your latte. If you go that route, I’d recommend using whole milk to get that same creamy, café-style texture.

Pumpkin Spice Syrup
$14.99

This Monin Pumpkin Spice Syrup captures that perfect blend of cinnamon and nutmeg for cozy, fall-inspired drinks. It’s great in lattes, mochas, teas, or even dessert cocktails, and you only need a little to get that warm, spiced flavor. Made with natural ingredients, non-GMO, and gluten-free, it’s an easy way to bring café-style flavor home.

Affiliate link: I might earn a commission if you make a booking, at no additional cost to you.
12/02/2025 02:00 am GMT
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Fishkill Farms New York

Instead of taking the easy route and picking up a pumpkin at Whole Foods, Steve and I decided to make an outing of it. We got in the car and drove up to Fishkill Farms in Hudson Valley, a beautiful, family-owned farm just over an hour north of New York City. The farm is known for its scenic surroundings, apple orchards, and organic produce.

Fishkill Farms has been around for more than 100 years and is still owned by the same family, the Morgenthaus, who founded it back in 1913. These days, they grow most of their crops following organic principles, and the farm is especially popular in the fall when visitors come to pick apples, shop for pumpkins, and enjoy freshly pressed cider and donuts straight from the farm store.

We visited the weekend before Halloween, which is probably one of the busiest weekends of the year, and it was packed. We had planned to sit down with warm apple cider and a couple of cider donuts, but the line was so long that we gave up after a few minutes. Instead, we took a quick walk around, found a beautiful pumpkin, and headed back home. Fishkill Farms is a wonderful place, but if you really want to take it all in, I’d recommend going on a weekday or during a quieter weekend when it’s not quite as crowded.

We carved a nice pumpkin and made a delicious snack, Harissa Roasted Pumpkin Seeds:

Recipe: Harissa Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

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Copenhagen: La Glace - Sportskage and Hot Chocolate

Trine and I had been talking about going to La Glace for ages, and on a Sunday afternoon earlier this year we finally made it happen. You can feel the atmosphere even before you step inside. The old windows, the beautiful cakes on display, and the quiet buzz from the people waiting in line. There is almost always a line outside, but it doesn’t really matter. You stand there looking at the cakes, discussing what you might want, and before you know it, it’s your turn.

La Glace is the oldest patisserie in Denmark, founded in 1870. The mirrors, the dark wood panels, and the calm atmosphere make it feel like a little piece of old Copenhagen. A place with understated elegance, a sense of tradition, and impeccable manners. I’ve never felt rushed there, even though there is usually a long line outside. You get to sit, settle in, and enjoy the whole experience.

While I’ve been to La Glace several times before, it was Trine’s first time, so of course we had to order Sportskage (Sports Cake), La Glace’s legendary layer cake. The cake was created in 1891 for the premiere of a play called Sportsmænd (sportsmen), so despite the title, there’s no hidden health angle or athletic backstory here. Sportskage is pure indulgence with whipped cream, nougatine and a chewy macaron base, and the only exercise involved is lifting your fork. It is every bit as decadent as it sounds, but it is rich, so we shared a slice, which was perfect.

We also had a slice of Forårskage (Spring Cake), a lighter layer cake with raspberry mousse, and such a nice little contrast to the Sportskage.

And then there is the hot chocolate. I’m tempted to say that you haven’t really been to La Glace until you’ve tried it, because it is one of the best cups of hot chocolate I have ever had. It is made with whole milk, heavy cream, and dark chocolate, and it comes with a big bowl of whipped cream on the side. If you still have room, they will refill the small pot for free. It is such a lovely place, and I highly recommend stopping by if you haven’t been yet.

What should you order at La Glace?

If it’s your first time, Sportskage and hot chocolate are non negotiable.

La Glace, Skoubogade 3, 1158 København

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Recipe: Oven Roasted Turkey - Wet Brined and Stuffed

The turkey is the star of the Thanksgiving table, and every family seems to have a different way of preparing it. From deep fried to dry brined to fully buttered under the skin, the options are endless. This recipe is for a classic, oven roasted turkey with stuffing inside, cooked the traditional way and full of all the flavors that make Thanksgiving feel like Thanksgiving, even for those of us who didn’t grow up with the holiday.

Notes

For this recipe I am cooking a really small turkey, at least by American standards. A 9 lbs bird is perfect if you are only a few people, plus it’s easier to wet brine. A good brine makes a big difference, and so does a proper meat thermometer. It is the only way to make sure both the turkey and the stuffing reach the right temperature without overcooking the breast. Use a meat thermometer.

The turkey is done when the thickest part of the thigh and the center of the stuffing reaches 165 F (74 C).

Wet brining is simple once you know the ratio. A classic brine uses about 1 tablespoon (35g) of kosher salt and 2 teaspoons (25g) of sugar per pound of turkey. Cooking time is usually 13 to 15 minutes per pound at 325 F, but stuffed turkeys take longer.

I am using Pepperidge Farm stuffing (the blue bag, herb seasoned classic stuffing, affiliate link), but you can use any brand of stuffing you want, or even make your own if you wish.

After adding the stuffing, you can tie the legs together with kitchen twine. As you can see in the photos for this recipe I forgot that. While it’s not essential for the cooking itself, and the turkey will turn out fine even if you skip it, tying the legs does help the bird keep a neater shape and makes it look a little prettier on the table.

All my Thanksgiving Recipes

Holiday Recipes from Scandinavia and the US

Recipe: Oven Roasted Turkey – Wet Brined and Stuffed

Serves

4

people with plenty of leftovers
Cook Mode

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Ingredients

  • 1 whole turkey, about 9 pounds (4 kilos)

  • 1 gallon plus 3 cups cold water (4 liters)

  • ¾ cup kosher salt (150 g)

  • ½ cup sugar (100 g)

  • 2 onions, quartered

  • 2 lemons, quartered

  • 1 garlic bulb, halved horizontally

  • Fresh herbs such as thyme, rosemary and sage

  • 4 tablespoons softened butter (50 g)

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil (50 ml)

  • cups chicken stock (400 ml)

  • 1 bag stuffing, prepared according to the package

  • Black pepper

Directions

  • How to wet brine the turkey
  • Heat 2 cups of the water (500 ml) until warm.
  • Add the salt and sugar and stir until dissolved.
  • Pour the mixture into a large container and add the remaining cold water. The brine must be completely cold.
  • Add one halved garlic bulb, one onion, one lemon and a handful of herbs.
  • Remove the giblets and submerge the turkey.
  • Refrigerate and brine for 12 to 24 hours, making sure the turkey is fully covered.
  • Prepare the turkey
  • Remove the turkey from the brine and discard the brine.
  • Rinse the turkey briefly under cold water and pat it completely dry.
  • Let it sit at room temperature for one hour. In the meantime, prepare the stuffing of your choice according to the package instructions. Let the stuffing cool for 10 to 15 minutes before adding it to the turkey. Do not add extra salt.
  • Loosely spoon stuffing into the cavity. Do not pack it tightly. Tie the legs together with kitchen twine.
    Place extra stuffing in a separate baking dish.
  • Rub the outside lightly with pepper. It doesn’t need salt.
  • Mix the softened butter and olive oil and rub all over the turkey, including under the breast skin.
  • Add one lemon in quarters, one onion in quarters, and a few sprigs of herbs to the roasting pan.
  • Roast the turkey
  • Heat the oven to 325 F (165 C).
  • Place the turkey breast side up on a rack in a roasting pan.
  • Pour the chicken stock into the bottom of the pan.
  • If you have the neck and heart, add them to the pan for extra flavor.
  • Roast for 13 to 15 minutes per pound, but because the turkey is stuffed, expect:
    2 hours and 45 minutes to 3 hours and 15 minutes total. I would strongly recommend that you use a meat thermometer. Baste every 45 minutes. If the breast or wing tips brown too quickly, tent them loosely with foil.
  • Let the turkey rest for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. This keeps the meat juicy and allows the stuffing to settle.
Deiss PRO Digital Meat Thermometer Ultra Fast Digital Cooking Thermometer
$14.98

If you’re ready to take the guesswork out of cooking, a good digital thermometer is a must. The Deiss PRO Digital Meat Thermometer is one of my favorites. It’s fast, accurate, and easy to use, whether you’re roasting a chicken, checking a steak, or making caramel. The backlit display is great for dim kitchens or outdoor grilling, and it gives you an instant reading in just a couple of seconds. It’s waterproof (so you can rinse it under the tap), folds neatly for storage, and even has a magnet so you can keep it right on the fridge. A small tool that makes a big difference in getting your food cooked just right every single time.

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12/01/2025 04:00 pm GMT
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Recipe: Cranberry Relish

Steve’s mom has made this cranberry relish for Thanksgiving for as long as he can remember, and now it has become one of my favorite holiday side dishes too. It is based on the recipe on the Ocean Spray bag, but she cuts the sugar way down. The original is very sweet, while this version is fresh and bright with a little bitterness from the whole orange.

It takes only a few minutes to make, and it tastes even better the next day, so I always prepare it in advance. The cranberries soften, the flavors develop, and the texture turns juicier. It has also become a hit with my family in Denmark, partly because it is not as heavy as a typical cooked cranberry sauce.

Notes

The orange is used with the peel on, so choose an organic one if possible.

This version is intentionally slightly tart, the original recipe on the Ocean Spray bag is much sweeter.
If you want it slightly sweeter, add sugar a teaspoon at a time until it tastes right to you.

All my Thanksgiving Recipes

Holiday Recipes from Scandinavia and the US

Recipe: Cranberry Relish

Yields

1

small bowl
Cook Mode

Keep the screen of your device on

Ingredients

  • 1 bag fresh cranberries, 12 oz (about 340 g)

  • 1 whole orange, unpeeled (preferably organic, wash well)

  • 2-3 tablespoons sugar

Directions

  • Rinse the cranberries and drain well.
  • Cut the orange into big chunks and remove any seeds. Keep the peel on.
  • Place cranberries and orange in a food processor. Pulse until everything is finely chopped, but not pureed.
  • Transfer to a bowl and stir in the sugar.
  • Cover and refrigerate overnight or at least several hours. The flavor deepens and the relish becomes more juicy as it sits.

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