Seattle Guide: How to get around

Seattle is a city of steep hills, long distances, and plenty of water, so how you get around can really shape your trip. This isn’t the kind of place where you just stroll from one attraction to the next, and while there’s public transportation, it’s not always the fastest option. If you’re staying for more than a couple of days, renting a car can make a lot of sense. Distances are often farther than they look on the map, and rideshares can get expensive quickly. Having a car also makes day trips easier, whether you’re heading to Mount Rainier or Olympic National Park.

That said, Seattle does have a solid mix of buses, light rail, ferries, and other options if you’d rather not drive. Here’s a quick overview:

Link light rail

Seattle’s Link light rail runs both above and below ground. From the airport, you can take it straight into downtown. The ride to Westlake Station takes about 35 minutes and costs $3 for adults, no matter how far you go. Westlake is under Westlake Center in downtown, close to Pike Place Market, shopping, and hotels, making it a great starting point for exploring on foot.

Buses and streetcars

King County Metro operates the city’s bus network, which covers most of Seattle and the suburbs. The Seattle Streetcar connects certain neighborhoods, such as South Lake Union and First Hill, with downtown. Service is fairly frequent, but expect delays during rush hour.

Ferries

With water all around, ferries are part of everyday life here. Washington State Ferries connect Seattle to Bainbridge Island, Bremerton, and other destinations across Puget Sound. You can walk on or bring a car, and the crossing comes with beautiful views, making the ride a trip in itself.

Uber, Lyft, and taxis

Uber and Lyft work well in Seattle, though prices can change depending on the time of day and demand. Taxis are less common than in many big US cities, and you’ll rarely find one to hail on the street, so it’s best to book ahead.

Bikes and scooters

On sunny days, you might consider biking or renting an electric scooter. Lime and Bird offer both, and you can book them through their apps. With Seattle’s hills, an e-bike is often a better choice than a regular bike if you’re going more than a short distance.

Paying for public transportation

Seattle uses the ORCA card (One Regional Card for All) for buses, streetcars, Link light rail, and ferries. You can buy and load it at station machines, select stores, or online. It’s worth getting if you plan to use transit more than a couple of times, and it works across most systems. Light rail rides are now a flat $3 for adults, including trips from the airport. Remember to tap in when you board, and on some lines, tap out when you get off to ensure you pay the correct fare.

If you’re only using public transportation occasionally, paying with a contactless credit card or your phone (Apple Pay or Google Pay) at station readers is often easier. There’s no setup and no extra card to carry—just tap and go.

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Seattle isn’t a city you wrap up in a weekend, but picking the right neighborhood to stay in gets you halfway there. Public transportation works fine, and many areas are pedestrian friendly, but the city is more spread out than you might expect.

If you want to be close to everything, Belltown or Downtown are easy choices. For a more local vibe and great food, Capitol Hill and Fremont are hard to beat. If you’ve been to Seattle before, or you’re after something quieter, Ballard and Queen Anne are charming alternatives.

Here are my personal picks for where to stay if it’s your first time in Seattle:

Downtown – Practical and central

Downtown is the obvious choice if you want to be right in the middle of it all. You can take the Link light rail straight from the airport, and you’ll be close to shops, restaurants, and attractions. Most of the big chain hotels are here. It’s not an area where you linger at night, and it can feel busy and impersonal, but if location is your top priority, Downtown works well.

Capitol Hill – Food, music, and personality

Capitol Hill is one of Seattle’s most vibrant neighborhoods, with everything from vegan brunch spots and noodle bars to cocktail lounges and small clubs. Indie shops and a creative, slightly alternative vibe make it a fun area to explore. It can be noisy at night, but you’re in the middle of local life, with plenty of places to eat, drink coffee, and people-watch.

Fremont – Local and laid-back

On my recent trips to Seattle, I’ve stayed in Fremont, which has become my favorite part of Seattle. Calling itself the “Center of the Universe,” Fremont feels like a Seattle version of Brooklyn, with a lively local scene, great restaurants, good coffee, vintage shops, and a relaxed, bohemian atmosphere. It’s quite a bit north of downtown, but with easy bus or car access. If you want to see a more authentic side of Seattle, this is the place.

Ballard – Brunch, water, and harbor life

Ballard has a maritime feel and some of the city’s best brunch spots and seafood restaurants. Stroll along the canals, and if you’re here in summer, watch salmon make their way up the fish ladder at the Ballard Locks. Ballard has a large Scandinavian community so you’ll find several Nordic-inspired restaurants and cafes. Ballard feels like its own little world, perfect if you want to step away from downtown for a while.

Queen Anne – Beautiful houses and great views

Perched on a hill overlooking downtown and Elliott Bay, Queen Anne is peaceful and pretty, with old houses and tree-lined streets. There’s not a ton to do in the neighborhood itself, but you’re close to the Space Needle and Seattle Center. It’s ideal if you want a quiet base that’s still within reach of the city’s main sights.

Belltown – Close to everything

Just north of downtown, Belltown is within walking distance of Pike Place Market, the Space Needle, and the waterfront. It’s not the most charming area, but it’s practical. Hotels range from budget to upscale, and there are plenty of restaurants and cafés. If you want to be near the main tourist spots and don’t mind a slightly businesslike feel, Belltown is a solid choice.

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New York City: Cod Roe Soondubu at DubuHaus

Steve and I had originally planned to have dinner at Hangawi, but it was restaurant week, and we hadn’t made a reservation. The staff told us the wait would be about 45 minutes which was too long on empty stomachs, so we decided to try DubuHaus, which is right next door. DubuHaus is known for soondubu (or soondobu/soontofu) jjigae, a Korean stew with silky tofu in a steaming hot, spicy broth. When I’m craving soondubu, I usually go straight to BCD Tofu House. I love their soondubu and I’ve never felt the need to try anywhere else. But BCD always has a line, and we were hungry, so that wasn’t an option either, and thus we ended up at DubuHaus.

Before our food arrived, they served a small glass of tofu drink on the house. Steve wasn’t a fan, but I found it ok tasty. I ordered the Cod Roe Soondubu, which arrived to the table piping hot. The roe still had the membrane around it, which wasn’t the most appetizing look, but it tasted great. Steve went for the Dubu Vegetable Bibimbap, which was served as a salad with rice on the side, so you could decide on the rice-to-veggie ratio yourself.

I had upgraded my rice to the Nutritious Kettle Pot Rice with ginkgo, edamame, and shiitake. That was a very good call and something I’d definitely recommend.

After the meal, we got another surprise: a small cup of tofu soft serve. Smooth, creamy, and with a subtle hint of tofu, almost as good as regular soft serve, and a perfect cold treat if you’re lactose intolerant.

I’m really glad we gave DubuHaus a try. The space is sleek and stylish, the service is friendly and efficient, their banchan is good, and to be honest, their soondubu is every bit as good as BCD’s.

My Guide to Korean Restaurants in New York City

DubuHaus, 6 E 32nd St, New York, NY 10016

DubuHaus NYC

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Kansas City: First Stop—Ice Cream at Betty Rae’s

Steve and I landed in Kansas City in the afternoon and drove straight from the airport to Betty Rae’s. I’d read about the place before our trip, and we both agreed it sounded like the perfect way to kick things off. Betty Rae’s makes their ice cream from scratch and regularly rotates the flavors, so there’s always something new to try. Some of the flavors are pretty classic, but others push the boundaries in ways that make you wonder who came up with them, and why.

We ordered the Adventure Flight, which comes with six scoops. The Crème Brûlée flavor is usually part of the flight, but it was sold out, so we got to choose a substitute and went with Pineapple Upside Down Cake.

Here’s what was in our flight:

Pineapple Upside Down Cake
Very sweet. Think canned pineapple and birthday cake. Not bad, just a bit much.

Lavender Honey
Soft and delicate flavor. A refined kind of scoop that would feel right at home on a fancy dessert menu.

Thou Mayest Coffee
Made in collaboration with the local craft coffee roaster Thou Mayest. Deep and balanced, like a frozen affogato. One of the better coffee ice creams I’ve had.

Salted Caramel
Rich caramel flavor, but definitely on the sweeter side.

Goat Cheese, Apricots & Candied Walnuts
This one was our favorite. The tangy goat cheese worked perfectly with the sweet apricots and crunchy walnuts. Light, bright, and refreshing, especially on a warm day like this.

Mint & Chocolate Flakes
I usually think mint ice cream tastes like toothpaste, but this one surprised me. More After Eight than Colgate. Fresh and really good.

One of the more out-there flavors on the menu is Joe’s KC BBQ, made in collaboration with Joe’s Kansas City, the legendary barbecue joint. The ice cream has chunks of burnt ends and a swirl of barbecue sauce, yes, really. Steve was curious enough to ask for a sample, and the scoop he got had an actual piece of meat in it. He took one bite and looked like he instantly regretted it. Steve usually eats any kind of ice cream, but this one crossed the line. The girl behind the counter laughed and said she wasn’t a fan either. Honestly, it’s hard to imagine anyone genuinely enjoying that combo.

Betty Rae’s, 412 Delaware St, Kansas City, MO 64105

Betty Raes Kansas City

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Arthur Bryant’s - Old School Kansas City Barbecue

Arthur Bryant’s was the first barbecue spot I tried in Kansas City, and let’s just say it set the bar high. The restaurant has been around since the 1930s and is widely regarded as one of the most legendary barbecue joints, not just in KC, but in the entire country. From the outside, it doesn’t look like much, but over the years, Arthur Bryant’s has welcomed presidents, movie stars, and foodies from all over who’ve come to try the famous Kansas City-style barbecue.

When Steve and I were there, we ordered burnt ends and pork ribs, with baked beans and cheesy corn on the side. I was hooked from the first bite. The sauce at Arthur Bryant’s is tangier and spicier than the sweet sauces Kansas City is typically known for, and it pairs beautifully with the smoky meat.

Burnt ends are the caramelized, crispy-edged pieces cut from the fattier point of a smoked brisket. Once considered scraps, they’re now one of the most sought-after items on the menu, and for good reason. At Arthur Bryant’s, they’re served in a sweet and spicy sauce along with slices of plain white bread. Nothing fancy, just delicious. The sauce pulls everything together, and the bread soaks it up like a sponge. Seriously good.

But for me, it was actually the ribs that stole the show. Perfectly cooked meat, lean but still juicy, with a deep, smoky flavor that lingered long after the last bite. Some of the best ribs I’ve ever had.

The baked beans were classic Kansas City-style, that is, dark, smoky, slightly sticky, and full of flavor. The cheesy corn was on the richer side, with melted cheese and sweet corn in what was basically a gratin-style sauce. A bit heavy in large quantities, but perfect for a couple spoonfuls alongside the meat.

Even though the staff was nice and the tables are clean, Arthur Bryant’s isn’t about sleek interiors or polished service. It’s about smoky meat, bold sauce, and sticking to what works. No shortcuts, no fluff. Just old school Kansas City barbecue the way it’s meant to be. If you want the real thing, this is where you go, and if you haven’t tried Kansas City barbecue, this is where you start.

Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque, 1727 Brooklyn Ave, Kansas City, MO 64127, United States

Arthur Bryants Kansas City

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My Guide to Food Halls and Food Markets in New York

Food halls and markets are now a solid part of the food scene in New York, and one of the best ways to sample just how much the city has to offer. A food hall is usually an indoor space with a bunch of small vendors. You order at the counter and sit down in a shared seating area. The outdoor markets work the same way but have more of a street food vibe. They’re usually only open on weekends or during the warmer months. Many vendors don’t have brick-and-mortar restaurants and only operate at markets, which is often where you’ll find the most exciting concepts. The line between food hall and food market isn’t always clear, though.

Even if the setup feels casual, eating at these places isn’t particularly cheap. The portions are small, so you’ll need a few dishes to feel full, and the total ends up being about the same as at a regular restaurant. Still, you get to try things you won’t find elsewhere, and you don’t have to commit to just one type of cuisine.

Queens Night Market

Queens Night Market takes place Saturday evenings in Flushing Meadows Corona Park in Queens, from mid-April through late October. It’s one of the city’s most diverse food markets, both in terms of what’s served and who shows up to eat. Over 100 vendors offer dishes from all over the world, from Ethiopian teff injera to Tibetan momos and Peruvian ceviche. Most dishes are capped at five to six dollars, which makes this one of the most budget-friendly options in the city. Some stalls are still cash-only, but many now accept Venmo and other payment apps, so it’s smart to bring a bit of cash just in case. The vibe is very local and laid-back, with live music and performances most nights. It gets busy around dinnertime, so show up early if you want to avoid the longest lines.

My blog post about Queens Night Market

Chelsea Market

Chelsea Market is one of the most well-known food halls in the city. It’s located in the Meatpacking District and combines food stalls with specialty shops in a big indoor space. You can get everything from seafood and tacos to noodles and pastries. It’s a great lunch stop, but also very popular with tourists, so expect crowds during the day.

My blog post about Chelsea Market and Friedman’s

Time Out Market

Time Out Market is in DUMBO, right by the East River, with a rooftop that has one of the best views of Manhattan. It opened in 2019 inside the old Empire Stores warehouse, which also has shops, exhibits and offices. The vendors are handpicked by the editors at Time Out New York, and you’ll find outposts of some of the city’s most popular restaurants and cafés. There’s pizza from Fornino, brunch staples from Clinton St. Baking Company, Southern comfort food from Jacob’s Pickles and barbecue from Bark. For dessert, you can grab mini doughnuts from Doughnuttery or get a coffee from Birch. The market also has three bars, and the rooftop is open to everyone, with great views of both the Brooklyn Bridge and the Manhattan Bridge. It’s a little more upscale than most food markets, and a little more expensive, but still very approachable.

Market 57

Market 57 is one of the newer food halls in New York, located out on Pier 57 by the Hudson River. The vendor lineup was curated in collaboration with the James Beard Foundation, with a focus on sustainability and highlighting small businesses and chefs who don’t typically get a spot in the bigger food halls. You’ll find Japanese curry, Filipino barbecue, Nigerian snacks and Mexican tamales. It’s a great spot for lunch or a casual dinner, especially if you’re already in the area around Chelsea or Little Island. Upstairs, there’s a public rooftop park with views of the river, and you’re welcome to bring your food up and enjoy it there.

Urban Hawker

Urban Hawker is in Midtown, close to Times Square, and it’s the first market in New York dedicated to Southeast Asian street food. It opened in 2022 in collaboration with the Singapore Tourism Board. The selection is solid, with everything from Hainanese chicken rice and laksa to nasi lemak, char kway teow and oyster omelets. The vibe is lively and slightly chaotic, just like a real hawker center. There’s both seating and takeout, and it works equally well for lunch or a casual dinner.

DeKalb Market Hall

DeKalb Market Hall is a local favorite in Downtown Brooklyn with over 40 vendors serving everything from Caribbean jerk chicken and Korean dumplings to pastrami sandwiches from a Katz’s Delicatessen outpost. There’s plenty of seating and a much more relaxed feel than the markets in Manhattan.

Essex Market

Essex Market has roots back in the 1940s but was recently reimagined in a modern space on the Lower East Side. It’s part farmers’ market, part food hall, with a mix of fresh produce, prepared meals and specialty items. There’s Latin American comfort food, gourmet cheese and freshly made sandwiches. It’s not fancy, but it’s very authentic and still a bit under the radar. Most tourists don’t make it this far.

Smorgasburg

Smorgasburg is the city’s biggest outdoor food market and one of the best spots to get a feel for how international New York really is. The market runs on weekends over the summer, with events on Saturdays in Williamsburg and Sundays in Prospect Park. There are more than 100 vendors between the two locations, and you’ll find Korean corn dogs, Japanese sandos, lobster rolls, Indian wraps and slushy cocktails in bright colors. Many of the stalls are run by small food entrepreneurs, and you’ll come across dishes you won’t find anywhere else in the city. It’s not cheap, though. Most items are around ten to fifteen dollars, and if you want to try a few things, it adds up quickly.

I definitely prefer the one in Prospect Park. It feels more spacious and a little calmer than Williamsburg, which can be crowded and very touristy. On a sunny day, it’s the perfect spot for a weekend outing. Grab something delicious, find a spot on the grass and soak up the atmosphere.

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