People eat late in Spain, so before it was time for dinner, Steve, my mom, and I went for a short evening walk around Ronda. We started by crossing the new bridge, Puente Nuevo. Earlier in the day it had been packed with tourists, but after dark there wasn’t a soul in sight. From there, we walked downhill toward the old bridge, Puente Viejo. On the way, we passed Casa del Rey Moro, which is known for its terraced gardens and the old water mine that was once used to haul water up from the gorge. The house itself dates back to the 1700s, but the water mine is much older and offers a fascinating glimpse into how people once made use of the gorge’s natural resources. The name might suggest that a Moorish king once lived here, but the building you see today was constructed in the 18th century, long after the Moorish period in Ronda had ended.

A little further down the road, we walked under Arco de Felipe V, a city gate named after King Philip V. This is where you leave the oldest part of Ronda on the south side of the gorge and head toward the newer part of town, while at the same time stepping out onto Puente Viejo, the old bridge across the gorge. We crossed Puente Viejo, which despite its name is not actually the oldest of Ronda’s three bridges. Further down in the gorge lies Puente San Miguel, which is the oldest bridge in the city.

By the time we headed back, it was quite dark, and the lighting along the stairways wasn’t great. There are a lot of steps along this route, but everything is manageable, and the evening atmosphere and beautiful sights along the way make it well worth the effort.

On the way back, we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking Puente Nuevo, beautifully lit up against the night sky. From there, we could also see our Airbnb, so we called my dad and asked him to step out onto the balcony and wave. Can you see him in the photo?

My blog about Ronda

Hotels in Ronda

Finding the right place to stay in Ronda makes a big difference, because it’s one of those towns where you’ll want to linger. Ronda is incredibly beautiful, with dramatic views, historic streets, and a relaxed pace that makes it easy to settle in. There are lots of great restaurants in town, everything from casual tapas bars to more refined spots, and plenty to see and do both in the city and in the surrounding area. Whether you’re looking for a charming hotel in the old town, a place with views of the gorge, or a comfortable base for exploring Andalusia, Ronda has options that fit. Click the link below to browse hotels in Ronda and find a place that feels just right for your stay.

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La Piconera in Ronda was the very first place we ate after arriving in town in the middle of the night. It was lunchtime the next day, and even though paella can feel a bit ambitious for lunch, that was exactly what we had come for. La Piconera is known for their paella, and when you are in Andalusia, you might as well go all in.

While we waited, we were served a small bowl of olives. They were really good and disappeared fast. Even my dad, who is usually not much of an olive person, was fully on board. When we reached the bottom of the bowl, there was an olive pit left behind. I am almost certain that one of us accidentally dropped it back into the bowl, but the tiny doubt about whether it had been there all along turned into a running joke for the rest of the trip, and we kept coming back to that story again and again.

You need to be at least two people to order paella, and it is made to order and served in a large pan. Steve and I chose the black paella with squid. The color comes from squid ink, which also gives the rice a deep, rich flavor. The paella was perfectly cooked, with plenty of tender pieces of squid, and it was served straight from the pan with small dollops of aioli on top. Simple and really good.

My parents ordered the chicken paella. They could choose between a dry or a wet version and went for the wet one, which had more broth than classic paella. It tasted very good too, but there was not a lot of chicken, and if I am being completely honest, I think ours with squid was the better one.

La Piconera is a small, lovely restaurant that I can more easily picture in the evening, with dim lighting and Spanish music in the background, than at lunchtime. The daily specials were handwritten on a piece of paper, and the atmosphere felt relaxed and local. There are several tables outside under a covered area that looked very cozy, but it was chilly that day, so we sat inside. There were quite a few other guests in the small restaurant, including a local couple who seemed determined to eat their way through most of the menu. Plates kept arriving at their table, and it was pretty entertaining to watch.

We were very full when we left. La Piconera is located just outside the center, far enough from the crowds of day trippers who come to Ronda to see the gorge, and that definitely adds to the experience. A really great place if you are craving excellent paella in Ronda.

La Piconera, C. Comandante Salvador Carrasco, 1, 29400 Ronda, Málaga, Spain

Garcima 12-Inch Enameled Steel Paella Pan, 30cm

$26.58

If you are serious about making paella at home, a proper pan makes all the difference. This 12 inch Garcima paella pan is made in Spain and designed specifically for the kind of wide, shallow cooking surface paella needs. It is the ideal size for cooking for two to three people and small enough to handle easily on a regular stovetop, grill, or in the oven.

The pan is made from enameled steel, so there is no seasoning or special maintenance involved, and it is even dishwasher safe. It comes with a simple care guide plus tips and a recipe to help you get started, which is especially nice if this is your first paella pan. The slightly convex shape helps liquids spread evenly, and while it is not suitable for induction cooktops, it works beautifully on gas and electric heat. A solid, no nonsense pan that does exactly what it is supposed to do.

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01/14/2026 03:01 pm GMT

After a late breakfast on the balcony, where we sat longer than planned with our coffee and the view of the gorge, we finally headed out to explore Ronda. The town is small enough that you can walk almost everywhere, and for the day we had set our sights on Plaza de Toros and the adjoining museum. It’s one of those places you can’t really skip if you want to understand Ronda beyond the pretty viewpoints.

The bullring dates back to 1785 and is considered one of the oldest and most important in Spain. Ronda played a key role in shaping modern bullfighting, and much of that history is tied to the Romero family, who helped define the tradition as it’s known today.

The arena itself is striking. Built from warm sandstone, it has a calm, almost elegant feel, with two levels of arches running all the way around. Even without anything happening in the ring, the place feels heavy with history. Today, the arena is only used once a year, in September, during the Feria de Pedro Romero, when the Corrida Goyesca takes place. The rest of the year, it functions primarily as a museum.

The museum presents the history of bullfighting in a very straightforward way. You’ll see costumes, posters, and historical objects, and the tone feels informative rather than glorifying. The bullring is owned by the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda, which still runs an active equestrian school. You can visit the stables and riding arena connected to the site, which adds another layer and makes the strong link between horsemanship and bullfighting very clear.

Ronda has long attracted artists and writers, and Ernest Hemingway is probably the most famous example. He spent time here and was deeply fascinated by both the town and bullfighting culture, which found its way into several of his works. Ronda has also made its way into pop culture. Madonna’s music video for Take a Bow was filmed mainly at the bullring in Ronda and featured the Spanish bullfighter Emilio Muñoz, with Plaza de Toros providing the dramatic backdrop for much of the video.

I liked the visit more than I expected to. The arena is beautiful, and the museum does a good job of providing context without trying to sell you on the tradition. It’s interesting and educational, even if you have no intention of ever attending a bullfight.

That said, the ethical side of bullfighting is hard to ignore. It’s far less popular in Spain today than it once was, and opposition has grown significantly. Personally, I’ve never been to a bullfight and don’t plan to go. At its core, I don’t believe animals should be subjected to unnecessary suffering. It does feel a bit uncomfortable to write that while also eating eggs and bacon from animals that may not have had ideal lives either. It’s not a simple topic, and definitely something to think about.

My blog about Ronda

Hotels in Ronda

Finding the right place to stay in Ronda makes a big difference, because it’s one of those towns where you’ll want to linger. Ronda is incredibly beautiful, with dramatic views, historic streets, and a relaxed pace that makes it easy to settle in. There are lots of great restaurants in town, everything from casual tapas bars to more refined spots, and plenty to see and do both in the city and in the surrounding area. Whether you’re looking for a charming hotel in the old town, a place with views of the gorge, or a comfortable base for exploring Andalusia, Ronda has options that fit. Click the link below to browse hotels in Ronda and find a place that feels just right for your stay.

Book Now

Affiliate link: I might earn a commission if you make a booking, at no additional cost to you.