London: Polpo – A Venetian Bàcaro in Soho

When Steve and I were in London, I took him to Polpo in Soho, and I couldn’t believe it had been twelve years since my last visit. I thought maybe seven—max—but nope, 2013. I went with AC back then, and I still remember the anchovy & chickpea crostini and the braised scallops with pancetta and peas. Those dishes are gone now, but Polpo still has a lot of tempting treats on the menu.

Polpo opened in 2009 and quickly became known for the delicious small plates menu. The vibe is inspired by the laid-back wine bars in Venice where you pop in for a bite and a glass of wine. When I was at Polpo with AC, they didn’t take reservations, but today you can book ahead, which we did, a few hours before we arrived. We ended up with seats at the bar, which honestly is where you’d want to be.

We ordered the Chicken Liver & Sage Crostino which was rich and earthy. If you like chicken liver, this one is for you. The Arancina was delicious. It was crispy on the outside and the rice and cheese filling inside was really tasty.

Baccalà Mantecato is a classic Venetian dish made with dried cod that has been rehydrated, poached, and then whipped into a silky, spreadable mousse. It had a balanced, delicate flavor, and tasted delicious together with the toasted polenta.

I just knew the Beef Shin Rigatoni would be good, and I was right. The meat was fall-apart tender and packed with deep, slow-cooked flavor, and the sauce clung perfectly to the rigatoni. Simple, hearty, and just really well done.

I really like this place, both for the food and the vibe and it was so nice to see that except for the menu nothing’s changed since my last visit. If you haven’t been, go. And if you’re already a fan, you’ll be glad to know it’s still every bit as good.

Polpo, 41 Beak Street, London