We had spent most of the afternoon at Luquillo Beach, and as the sun began to dip, it was time to figure out where to have dinner. Along the main road just behind the beach is a long row of kiosks, small food stalls and bars, so that’s where we headed.
There are plenty of places to choose from, but kiosk number eight, La Ocho de Sylvia, immediately stood out. It felt more low key and less polished than the others. The setup was simple, with plastic tablecloths and no view of the beach. The kind of place that usually turns out to be really good.
The counter was filled with fried snacks, and the owner took his time explaining what each dish was. The menu included alcapurrias, bacalaítos, empanadas, pastelillos, and piononos. At La Ocho de Sylvia, the alcapurrias are made from a mixture of yams, cassava, plantains, and banana, shaped around the filling and deep fried. Bacalaítos are thin, crispy fritters made with bacalao, salted cod. Most of you probably know empanadas, but in case you don’t, they are small savory pastries filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables, folded over and baked or fried. At Sylvia, they are fried, like everything else on the menu. Pastelillos are similar to empanadas but usually thinner and crispier. Piononos are made from ripe plantains sliced lengthwise, wrapped around a savory filling, and then formed into small, compact rounds before being fried. Everything sounded so good that choosing felt impossible, so we ended up ordering one of each.
While we waited, the owner told us that he and his wife had been running the place for 35 years. Before them, his mother had operated the restaurant for 45 years. The exact timeline was a bit unclear, and there might have been some overlap, but one thing was certain; this place has been around for decades.
Some of the food was already prepared and sitting in the counter, but the owner suggested making everything fresh for us. We happily agreed, and shortly after, our order arrived straight from the fryer, still steaming hot. Steve managed to burn his tongue more than once by digging in too quickly, before the food had a chance to cool.
I went up to the counter to watch the food being made and was allowed to film how our alcapurria was prepared. It was fascinating to see and even more interesting to hear the owner talk about the food and the history of the place.
We were hungry after a long day that had included both rainforest hiking and beach lounging, so we devoured almost everything on the table. It was all very good, but the bacalaíto was our shared favorite. Light and crispy, with a clear, savory taste of bacalao.
I also really liked the alcapurria with crab, while Steve preferred the empanada with chicken and cheese and the shrimp pastelillo. We saved the pionono for last, but by then we were already full, and didn’t appreciate the heavier plantain snack as much as the other snacks we had. I had a Coke with the meal, while Steve picked up a mojito from one of the neighboring kiosks, as La Ocho de Sylvia does not serve alcohol.
If you’re anywhere near Luquillo, promise me you’ll stop by La Ocho de Sylvia. It’s a wonderful place, a true little gem. Warm people, excellent food, and an experience I won’t forget anytime soon.
La Ocho de Sylvia, Kiosk no. 8, 97J6+2XR, Luquillo, 00773, Puerto Rico
