Seoul is a city of many layers. A high energy metropolis where modern neighborhoods, neon lights, and world class cafés exist side by side with old palaces, temples, and traditional markets. It’s this contrast between the hypermodern and the historic that makes Seoul so fascinating, and a city you never quite feel finished with.

I was adopted from South Korea and have visited Seoul many times, so the city holds a very special place for me. In this guide, I’ve gathered my best tips for food and restaurants, along with what I think you should experience in Seoul. You’ll find places to eat, experiences that offer real insight into the city’s culture, and neighborhoods I always find myself returning to. Whether this is your first trip to Seoul or you already know the city, I hope this guide will inspire you to see it in new ways.