I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Bangkok—actually, no I haven’t. It’s over 50. And yet, the city still gets me every time. Bangkok is bold, messy, delicious, and completely addictive. You can spend the morning in a luxury spa and the afternoon chasing street food down alleys so narrow you’re not sure if you’re supposed to be there (you are).
In this guide, I’ve gathered some of my go-to spots from all those visits—where to eat (both the fancy and the fiercely local), where to stay (including the pros and cons of that Hangover hotel), and what to do when you're not busy getting your daily Thai massage or queuing for mango sticky rice. Whether you’re new to the city or already under its spell, here’s everything you need for a great Bangkok stay.