Last weekend I went to Ved Kanalen in Fredericia for dinner with my parents and my sister Trine. Fredericia is my hometown, and the place where I grew up in Denmark, so it is always fun to see new restaurants opening and the local food scene evolving.
It was my first visit since the restaurant changed its name and concept. The place used to be called Ene., and Steve and I had dinner there a few years ago. Back then the food was exceptional, easily on par with some of the better restaurants I have visited abroad, so I was curious to see what the new version of the restaurant would be like.
The people behind the restaurant are more or less the same as before, but the concept has changed. Instead of a fine dining restaurant, Ved Kanalen now describes itself as a Nordic bistro. The ambition in the kitchen is still clearly there, but the format is more relaxed and a lot more accessible. In practical terms that also means the prices are more reasonable.
During the day they serve smørrebrød and different lunch dishes, while the evening menu focuses on modern Nordic cooking with seasonal ingredients.
The location really is beautiful, right by the canal, and the floor to ceiling windows facing the water make the dining room feel bright and open. We were lucky to get a table right by the window, so we could enjoy the view while we ate.
The restaurant was quite busy that evening, and it was obvious that the staff had a lot going on. There was some waiting time at the beginning of the meal, but once the initial rush settled down, the service became more relaxed. The staff stopped by our table to chat about the food and the new concept, which gave the evening a nice and personal touch.
The dinner menu is divided into snacks, starters, main courses, and desserts. My mom skipped the starter and instead ordered the fried kale from the snack menu. It was nicely crisp, though a bit mild in flavor. A sprinkle of the salt from the table helped bring it to life. I had been tempted by the crispy fish skin that was also listed among the snacks, but unfortunately it had already sold out earlier that day.
For my starter I had a parsnip carpaccio served with a slightly tart salad and grated Vesterhavs cheese. It was a simple dish, but beautifully balanced and probably my favorite plate of the evening. Trine and my dad both had the beef tartare which was well executed and not overly seasoned. The portion size of the starters was just right, leaving enough room for the main course and dessert.
For my main course I had moules frites with white wine, cream, and herbs. One of the best parts about moules frites is the broth the mussels are cooked in. The mussels were served with fries, but I really wanted something to soak up that delicious broth, so I ordered bread on the side. It turned out to be thick slices of grilled bread served with a generous portion of whipped herb butter. The bread was perfect for soaking up the broth and made the dish even better.
Trine went for fish and chips, which also turned out to be an excellent choice. The fish had a crisp, golden crust and came with a large portion of very good fries and a side of mushy peas. In fact, the fries were so good that my parents repeatedly reached across the table to steal a few from both of our plates.
My parents both had the butter baked white fish. I believe it was haddock that evening, but we forgot to ask. It was a very elegant dish, beautifully presented on a bed of two different root vegetable purées.
For dessert I had the sea buckthorn crumble. The tart flavor of the sea buckthorn worked really well with the sweet crumble topping and the whipped cream, although I personally might have preferred vanilla ice cream instead of the whipped cream along with the crumble. My dad had a dessert with homemade ice cream that had a slightly herbal flavor, possibly licorice, though we forgot to ask what flavor the ice cream actually was. Trine had the cheese plate with four different cheeses and crisp chips made from Danish rye bread, and there was more than enough for the rest of us to taste as well.
Fredericia has never really been known as a restaurant destination. For years the dining scene here has felt a step behind nearby cities such as Kolding and Vejle, so it is always nice to see someone aiming a little higher. Ved Kanalen strikes a really nice balance. The food is ambitious without feeling pretentious, and the prices are at a level where most people can join in.
If you are in Fredericia and in the mood for modern Nordic food but not quite ready to commit to a full Michelin experience at Ti Trin Ned, Ved Kanalen is a really good choice. And with that view of the canal right outside the window, it is a very nice place to spend an evening.
Ved Kanalen, Kongensgade 150, 7000 Fredericia, Denmark
