After a late breakfast on the balcony, where we sat longer than planned with our coffee and the view of the gorge, we finally headed out to explore Ronda. The town is small enough that you can walk almost everywhere, and for the day we had set our sights on Plaza de Toros and the adjoining museum. It’s one of those places you can’t really skip if you want to understand Ronda beyond the pretty viewpoints.
The bullring dates back to 1785 and is considered one of the oldest and most important in Spain. Ronda played a key role in shaping modern bullfighting, and much of that history is tied to the Romero family, who helped define the tradition as it’s known today.
The arena itself is striking. Built from warm sandstone, it has a calm, almost elegant feel, with two levels of arches running all the way around. Even without anything happening in the ring, the place feels heavy with history. Today, the arena is only used once a year, in September, during the Feria de Pedro Romero, when the Corrida Goyesca takes place. The rest of the year, it functions primarily as a museum.
The museum presents the history of bullfighting in a very straightforward way. You’ll see costumes, posters, and historical objects, and the tone feels informative rather than glorifying. The bullring is owned by the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda, which still runs an active equestrian school. You can visit the stables and riding arena connected to the site, which adds another layer and makes the strong link between horsemanship and bullfighting very clear.
Ronda has long attracted artists and writers, and Ernest Hemingway is probably the most famous example. He spent time here and was deeply fascinated by both the town and bullfighting culture, which found its way into several of his works. Ronda has also made its way into pop culture. Madonna’s music video for Take a Bow was filmed mainly at the bullring in Ronda and featured the Spanish bullfighter Emilio Muñoz, with Plaza de Toros providing the dramatic backdrop for much of the video.
I liked the visit more than I expected to. The arena is beautiful, and the museum does a good job of providing context without trying to sell you on the tradition. It’s interesting and educational, even if you have no intention of ever attending a bullfight.
That said, the ethical side of bullfighting is hard to ignore. It’s far less popular in Spain today than it once was, and opposition has grown significantly. Personally, I’ve never been to a bullfight and don’t plan to go. At its core, I don’t believe animals should be subjected to unnecessary suffering. It does feel a bit uncomfortable to write that while also eating eggs and bacon from animals that may not have had ideal lives either. It’s not a simple topic, and definitely something to think about.
Finding the right place to stay in Ronda makes a big difference, because it’s one of those towns where you’ll want to linger. Ronda is incredibly beautiful, with dramatic views, historic streets, and a relaxed pace that makes it easy to settle in. There are lots of great restaurants in town, everything from casual tapas bars to more refined spots, and plenty to see and do both in the city and in the surrounding area. Whether you’re looking for a charming hotel in the old town, a place with views of the gorge, or a comfortable base for exploring Andalusia, Ronda has options that fit. Click the link below to browse hotels in Ronda and find a place that feels just right for your stay.
