La Piconera in Ronda was the very first place we ate after arriving in town in the middle of the night. It was lunchtime the next day, and even though paella can feel a bit ambitious for lunch, that was exactly what we had come for. La Piconera is known for their paella, and when you are in Andalusia, you might as well go all in.
While we waited, we were served a small bowl of olives. They were really good and disappeared fast. Even my dad, who is usually not much of an olive person, was fully on board. When we reached the bottom of the bowl, there was an olive pit left behind. I am almost certain that one of us accidentally dropped it back into the bowl, but the tiny doubt about whether it had been there all along turned into a running joke for the rest of the trip, and we kept coming back to that story again and again.
You need to be at least two people to order paella, and it is made to order and served in a large pan. Steve and I chose the black paella with squid. The color comes from squid ink, which also gives the rice a deep, rich flavor. The paella was perfectly cooked, with plenty of tender pieces of squid, and it was served straight from the pan with small dollops of aioli on top. Simple and really good.
My parents ordered the chicken paella. They could choose between a dry or a wet version and went for the wet one, which had more broth than classic paella. It tasted very good too, but there was not a lot of chicken, and if I am being completely honest, I think ours with squid was the better one.
La Piconera is a small, lovely restaurant that I can more easily picture in the evening, with dim lighting and Spanish music in the background, than at lunchtime. The daily specials were handwritten on a piece of paper, and the atmosphere felt relaxed and local. There are several tables outside under a covered area that looked very cozy, but it was chilly that day, so we sat inside. There were quite a few other guests in the small restaurant, including a local couple who seemed determined to eat their way through most of the menu. Plates kept arriving at their table, and it was pretty entertaining to watch.
We were very full when we left. La Piconera is located just outside the center, far enough from the crowds of day trippers who come to Ronda to see the gorge, and that definitely adds to the experience. A really great place if you are craving excellent paella in Ronda.
La Piconera, C. Comandante Salvador Carrasco, 1, 29400 Ronda, Málaga, Spain
