Koldinghus sits on a hill in the center of Kolding, right by Slotssøen, and from the first glance you can tell this isn’t a typical castle. The raw brick walls and the newer additions stand side by side with what remains of the original structure, and it gives the whole place a layered, slightly unconventional look.
Koldinghus began as a fortress in the 1200s, most likely during the reign of Erik Klipping, and later developed into a royal castle. In the 1500s, it was used as a residence when the king was in Jutland, including by Christian III and later Christian IV, who also carried out a major expansion of the castle.
In 1808, the castle burned down and was left as a ruin for many years before reopening as a museum in the late 1800s. The large scale restoration that defines Koldinghus today began in 1972 and continued for nearly 20 years, finishing in 1991. The project was led by architects Inger and Johannes Exner, and their approach is what makes Koldinghus stand out. Instead of trying to recreate the castle as it looked before the fire, they chose to work with the ruin. New structures were added in a way that clearly distinguishes old from new, creating a result that feels honest and, at the same time, really beautiful. The restoration is often highlighted as a textbook example of how to work with historic buildings without erasing their history.
The castle isn’t symmetrical, and that’s part of its character. The Giant Tower is the most prominent feature and ties everything together. It was also the highlight for me. It’s always nice to get up high, and the view over the city from the top is really good.
Trine’s favorite was the Flora Danica exhibition. The porcelain is hand painted with plants from the botanical work Flora Danica, which documented wild Danish plants in detailed scientific illustrations. What makes it special is that the motifs are not exotic, but everyday plants and herbs from Danish nature, presented on royal tableware. In the exhibition, the table is set with Flora Danica, so it’s not just displayed behind glass but gives a sense of how it was actually used.
Koldinghus has both permanent and temporary exhibitions, and when we visited, there was a focus on weaving and tapestries. Large, detailed wall hangings were on display, along with workshops where you could learn more about the craftsmanship behind them.
We had set aside an afternoon at Koldinghus, but I could easily have spent more time. There is a lot to see, and everything is thoughtfully curated and well presented, so you get both a clear overview and the option to dive deeper into what interests you.
Here are my tips if you’re visiting Koldinghus
Read a bit about the Exner restoration before you go. It makes a big difference when you understand what you’re looking at and why it looks the way it does.
Go up the Giant Tower. There are quite a few stairs, but it’s worth it for the view.
Stop by the museum shop before you leave. It’s very well curated, with a great selection of books, design pieces, and objects connected to history, art, and the current exhibitions.
Try on the costumes. There’s a dressing room where you can put on outfits from different historical periods, sit on the throne, and take a photo. It’s fun, for both kids and adults.
Madkælderen is located inside the castle and serves modern food in historic surroundings. It’s open for both lunch and dinner, so it’s easy to combine your visit with a meal.
Right next to Koldinghus is Staldgården, which is also a museum. The buildings were originally used as stables, but during World War II, the Gestapo had their headquarters here and set up prison cells. One of them, Zelle II, is still preserved with names carved into the walls, and it leaves a strong impression. Today, the story is told through exhibitions and narratives, and it’s a meaningful addition to your visit if you have the time.
My blog about The Heart of Jutland
Curious about this part of Denmark? Visit The Heart of Jutland’s website
or check out their instagram @theheartofjutland
