Sukhumvit Road is one of Bangkok’s main arteries. It starts close to the city center and runs east through a long stretch of very different neighborhoods. Sukhumvit is not a neighborhood in itself, but a major road, and the atmosphere, pace, and crowd change noticeably the farther you move away from central Bangkok.
What ties the neighborhoods together is the BTS Skytrain, which follows Sukhumvit Road and makes getting around easy. Stay close to a BTS station and Bangkok suddenly feels much more manageable. For first time visitors, Sukhumvit is therefore an obvious place to stay, even if it does mean being farther from Chinatown, Khao San Road, and the river.
Here is my guide to the different neighborhoods along Sukhumvit Road:
Nana and the Start of Sukhumvit Road
At the western end of Sukhumvit Road, around Nana BTS, the contrasts are obvious from the very beginning. The area sits right next to some of Bangkok’s most upscale neighborhoods, with luxury hotels, embassies, and quiet streets, but Nana itself is dominated by a very visible and in your face nightlife scene. Neon lights, bars, and adult entertainment fill the streets, especially in the evening.
I have stayed in this area several times, but it is one of the few places in Bangkok I would not recommend. Even though there are good restaurants and nice hotels nearby, there are still better alternatives, especially if you are a female solo traveler.
Asok as a Hub
A couple of stations farther east is Asok, where the BTS and MRT intersect. This is one of the most practical places to stay in Bangkok, particularly if it is your first time in the city. Terminal 21, one of my favorite shopping malls, is located here, and the area works as an efficient hub with hotels, restaurants, and easy access to the rest of Bangkok.
Soi Cowboy is right next door and cannot be completely ignored, but in practice it is easy to steer clear of. Asok is a good example of Sukhumvit’s contrasts. Everything exists side by side, and you quickly get used to navigating around the parts you are not interested in.
Phrom Phong and the More Polished Sukhumvit
Farther east, Sukhumvit changes character again. Around Phrom Phong, the area feels more polished and well ordered. This is where you find large luxury shopping malls, international supermarkets, and impressive apartment buildings, and the overall atmosphere is calmer and more family friendly.
The area is popular with both expats and wealthy Thais, and many choose Phrom Phong if they want to stay comfortably and centrally without the most intrusive nightlife. That said, the neighborhood can also feel a bit slick and less personal if you are looking for a stronger local vibe.
Ekkamai and the Transition
Ekkamai sits naturally between central Sukhumvit and the more local neighborhoods farther out. The pace is slower, but there are still cafés, bars, and plenty of good places to eat. Compared to Asok and Phrom Phong, Ekkamai feels more relaxed and more local.
It is a good option if you want to stay on Sukhumvit Road but slightly removed from the busiest stretches, and many choose Ekkamai as a compromise between convenience and calm.
Thonglor, My Favorite Area
My favorite area in Bangkok is Thonglor. It is popular with expats, especially from Japan but also from other parts of Asia, as well as with wealthy Thais, and this is clearly reflected in the restaurant scene. You will find a great selection of excellent restaurants and cozy cafes here, and there are very few tourists.
Thonglor feels more local and relaxed than the most tourist heavy parts of the city, while still being modern, upscale, and well maintained. There are many upscale apartment buildings, and the overall atmosphere feels more everyday and residential than central Sukhumvit. It is a really good area to stay in if you are spending a longer time in Bangkok.