Mitzie Mee Blog

From Copenhagen to Lisbon and a really nice dinner

Travel day from Copenhagen to Lisbon, and a very good start to this trip. I flew out of Copenhagen, while Steve came in from the US, and we met up in Lisbon. I started in the airport lounge with leverpostej (Danish liver pâté) and sild (pickled herring), very Danish, and the perfect preflight food if you ask me. It was also my first time flying with TAP, and they were really good.

Steve had arrived in Lisbon earlier than me, so after I arrived we went straight out for dinner. Just around the corner from where we’re staying, we found Tasca da Esquina. It was a really nice restaurant, a bit more upscale than your usual neighborhood spot, but cozy and the food was great.

We had sautéed shrimp, cockles, and bacalhau, and everything was delicious. The staff was nice too and didn’t hesitate to provide their recommendations regarding what to order. First night in Lisbon, and already off to a great start.

One small thing to be aware of: bread are often placed on the table when you sit down, but they’re not complimentary. It’s a common practice at certain restaurants in Lisbon, and at Tasca da Esquina bread, olives, cheese, and ham showed up on the table without mentioning there was a charge for it. We saw the charge on the first page of the menu and decided to have it anyway, but it still felt a bit off. If you don’t check the menu first and you’re unaware of this practice, it would be easy to assume it’s complimentary.

March 23, 2026

Denmark: Ved Kanalen in Fredericia – a Nordic Bistro with a view

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

Ved Kanalen, Nordic bistro in Fredericia

Last weekend I went to Ved Kanalen in Fredericia for dinner with my parents and my sister Trine. Fredericia is my hometown, and the place where I grew up in Denmark, so it is always fun to see new restaurants opening and the local food scene evolving.

It was my first visit since the restaurant changed its name and concept. The place used to be called Ene., and Steve and I had dinner there a few years ago. Back then the food was exceptional, easily on par with some of the better restaurants I have visited abroad, so I was curious to see what the new version of the restaurant would be like.

The people behind the restaurant are more or less the same as before, but the concept has changed. Instead of a fine dining restaurant, Ved Kanalen now describes itself as a Nordic bistro. The ambition in the kitchen is still clearly there, but the format is more relaxed and a lot more accessible. In practical terms that also means the prices are more reasonable.

During the day they serve smørrebrød and different lunch dishes, while the evening menu focuses on modern Nordic cooking with seasonal ingredients.

The location really is beautiful, right by the canal, and the floor to ceiling windows facing the water make the dining room feel bright and open. We were lucky to get a table right by the window, so we could enjoy the view while we ate.

The restaurant was quite busy that evening, and it was obvious that the staff had a lot going on. There was some waiting time at the beginning of the meal, but once the initial rush settled down, the service became more relaxed. The staff stopped by our table to chat about the food and the new concept, which gave the evening a nice and personal touch.

The dinner menu is divided into snacks, starters, main courses, and desserts. My mom skipped the starter and instead ordered the fried kale from the snack menu. It was nicely crisp, though a bit mild in flavor. A sprinkle of the salt from the table helped bring it to life. I had been tempted by the crispy fish skin that was also listed among the snacks, but unfortunately it had already sold out earlier that day.

For my starter I had a parsnip carpaccio served with a slightly tart salad and grated Vesterhavs cheese. It was a simple dish, but beautifully balanced and probably my favorite plate of the evening. Trine and my dad both had the beef tartare which was well executed and not overly seasoned. The portion size of the starters was just right, leaving enough room for the main course and dessert.

For my main course I had moules frites with white wine, cream, and herbs. One of the best parts about moules frites is the broth the mussels are cooked in. The mussels were served with fries, but I really wanted something to soak up that delicious broth, so I ordered bread on the side. It turned out to be thick slices of grilled bread served with a generous portion of whipped herb butter. The bread was perfect for soaking up the broth and made the dish even better.

Trine went for fish and chips, which also turned out to be an excellent choice. The fish had a crisp, golden crust and came with a large portion of very good fries and a side of mushy peas. In fact, the fries were so good that my parents repeatedly reached across the table to steal a few from both of our plates.

My parents both had the butter baked white fish. I believe it was haddock that evening, but we forgot to ask. It was a very elegant dish, beautifully presented on a bed of two different root vegetable purées.

For dessert I had the sea buckthorn crumble. The tart flavor of the sea buckthorn worked really well with the sweet crumble topping and the whipped cream, although I personally might have preferred vanilla ice cream instead of the whipped cream along with the crumble. My dad had a dessert with homemade ice cream that had a slightly herbal flavor, possibly licorice, though we forgot to ask what flavor the ice cream actually was. Trine had the cheese plate with four different cheeses and crisp chips made from Danish rye bread, and there was more than enough for the rest of us to taste as well.

Fredericia has never really been known as a restaurant destination. For years the dining scene here has felt a step behind nearby cities such as Kolding and Vejle, so it is always nice to see someone aiming a little higher. Ved Kanalen strikes a really nice balance. The food is ambitious without feeling pretentious, and the prices are at a level where most people can join in.

If you are in Fredericia and in the mood for modern Nordic food but not quite ready to commit to a full Michelin experience at Ti Trin Ned, Ved Kanalen is a really good choice. And with that view of the canal right outside the window, it is a very nice place to spend an evening.

Ved Kanalen, Kongensgade 150, 7000 Fredericia, Denmark

March 10, 2026

New York City: Asano: A Really Cool Cafe Concept You Should Know About

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

Last week Steve and I stopped by Asano, a new cafe concept that has quietly been gaining traction in New York. We had been invited by founder Kate Kaneko to come by and check it out. Kate unfortunately was not there that morning, but we chatted with some of the staff and ended up spending a really nice, relaxed morning at the cafe.

We visited the Asano cafe inside The Noortwyck on Bleecker Street, and even from a distance we spotted the bright orange noren hanging outside. A noren is the traditional fabric curtain you often see at the entrance to restaurants and shops in Japan, so it was a small hint of the Japanese inspiration behind Asano.

I ordered the Strawberry Matcha while Steve went for the Banoffee Latte. Both were excellent. You could immediately taste that they are using high quality matcha. It had that clean, smooth flavor good matcha should have, without any bitterness.

Asano has recently started serving onigiri, triangular Japanese rice balls. One of the versions that day was with umeboshi, a Japanese pickled plum with a very sour and salty flavor. It is definitely a bold taste and probably not for everyone, but I love umeboshi and thought it was delicious.

Steve had the Orange Olive Oil muffin, which was also really good. It had a lightly crisp crust on the top and a soft, moist crumb inside with plenty of bright orange flavor.

The pastries and sweets at Asano come from small artisan bakeries they collaborate with, and the items are made specifically for them. The selection is not large, but it feels thoughtfully curated and different from what you usually find at a coffee shop.

After our visit I spoke with Kate on the phone about the concept. Kate is half Japanese, and you can clearly feel the Japanese influence in the cafe, from the orange noren outside to the pastries and the selection of hot and cold drinks.

Kate told me that the idea for Asano came from a simple observation. Many restaurants have beautiful dining rooms that sit empty for most of the morning and early afternoon. With Asano those same spaces turn into cafes for a few hours each day. The concept is simple but quite brilliant. Instead of opening their own cafe spaces, Asano moves into restaurants that otherwise only open in the evening. It is a win for the restaurants, which get life in the space during the quiet hours, and it is also great for the cafe guests who get to enjoy their coffee in much nicer surroundings than the typical grab and go coffee shop.

Kate told me that there is even a practical benefit when it comes to the coffee. The espresso machine belongs to the restaurant, and espresso machines perform best when they are used regularly. Pulling shots all morning helps keep the machine in top condition, which results in better coffee for guests both in the cafe and later in the restaurant.

Asano is already expanding, and more cafes are on the way. It is a really strong concept, and I would love to see those orange noren popping up in more places around the city. So if you are walking down Bleecker Street, keep an eye out for the orange noren outside The Noortwyck. If you have time, step inside. Really good coffee, excellent matcha, and a wonderful selection of pastries are waiting.

Asano at The Noortwyck, 289 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014, United States

March 8, 2026

Plantation Urban Resort & Spa – Wonderful hotel in Phnom Penh

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

Plantation Urban Resort & Spa - My Favorite Hotel in Phnom Penh

Plantation Urban Resort & Spa is one of my absolute favorite hotels, not just in Phnom Penh, but anywhere in the world. It’s centrally located, within walking distance of the National Museum and the Royal Palace, but the moment you walk through the lobby and step out into the lush courtyard with the large pool in the center, it feels like you’ve entered a completely different world.

Plantation is a boutique hotel with an understated sense of luxury, where the rooms are simple but thoughtfully styled. There’s everything you need, and the bathroom products are nice, with body lotion, shampoo, and soap.

The last time I checked in, I was given a ground floor room with two twin beds and a nice terrace in front. Unfortunately, they were renovating the rooms directly across from mine, and it was quite noisy. I didn’t feel like listening to that for my entire stay, so I went down to the front desk and asked if I could move. Thankfully, they arranged it right away.

I was given a new room in another building, a bit further up, I think it was on the second floor. There, I had a small, very cozy balcony, and in the evening, when the heat settled, it was wonderful out there.

The entire hotel grounds are incredibly green and lush, with large tropical plants and small paths winding around the pool in the center. Phnom Penh can be hectic and noisy, so coming back to this quiet little oasis after a long day out in the city feels pretty wonderful.

Breakfast is included in the price and it is amazing. Try to get up early so you can grab one of the tables by the pool. There’s fresh fruit, juice, yogurt and muesli, an omelet station, and different salads, breads, and pastries. One day they had canelés, which were surprisingly good, and an almond croissant with plenty of delicious filling.

In terms of price, Plantation is still very reasonable, especially if you book well in advance. You don’t get extravagant luxury, but you do get peace and quiet, beautiful green surroundings, and a location that makes it easy to explore the city. A fantastic hotel right in the middle of Phnom Penh.

Plantation Urban Resort & Spa

Plantation Urban Resort & Spa is a serene oasis in Phnom Penh. Nestled just steps from the Royal Palace and National Museum, this boutique retreat offers lush tropical gardens, two inviting outdoor pools, and a rejuvenating spa experience. Beautiful rooms and delicious breakfast.

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Plantation Urban Resort & Spa, រាជធានី, 28 Samdach Preah Thoamak Lekhet Ouk St. (184), Phnom Penh 12206, Cambodia

March 2, 2026

Lunch at Molini’s – Our last meal in Puerto Rico

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

After spending the morning at Ocean Park Beach, we had lunch at Molini’s, a small, family run restaurant. The handwritten menu hung in a frame on the wall, and the owner came over to our table to walk us through every single dish, speaking with the calm confidence of someone who truly stands behind what he serves.

We were curious about Gandinga guisada, but this was where he gently stopped us. Gandinga is a traditional stew made with organ meats, typically liver and heart, cut into small cubes and simmered in a flavorful sauce with sofrito and potatoes. It is rustic cooking with deep roots in a food culture that uses the whole animal. The owner told us it was one of his favorite dishes, but if we were not fans of organ meats, we should choose something else. Steve is not particularly fond of liver, so we appreciated the honesty and moved on.

Instead, we ordered Sancocho, a hearty Puerto Rican soup or stew with meat, vegetables, and corn that had clearly been simmering for a long time. The flavor was deep and rounded, with the kind of quiet richness that only comes from hours on the stove.

We also ordered Arroz con Pollo, rice with chicken, served with the distinctive yellow rice you see everywhere on the island. The color usually comes from annatto, also known as achiote, small seeds infused in oil that give both a warm golden hue and a mild, slightly nutty flavor.

The rice was excellent and clearly flavored with sofrito, the aromatic base of onion, garlic, peppers, and herbs that forms the backbone of so many Puerto Rican dishes. On the plate were also fried plantains and a big slice of perfectly ripe avocado.

On the side, we were served a small bowl of beans that nearly stole the show, at least for me. The flavor was intense and layered, and once again it was the sofrito that gave depth. It is fascinating how much character such a simple dish can have when it is made properly. Honestly, some of the best beans I have ever had.

The portions were generous and, with a flight to catch, we skipped dessert. Not long after, we were in a taxi on our way to the airport, still tasting yellow rice, sofrito, and sweet fried plantains. It was a wonderful, flavorful way to say goodbye to Puerto Rico.

Molini’s, 1859 Puerto Rico, 1857 C. Loíza, San Juan, 00911, Puerto Rico

March 1, 2026

Phnom Penh: Grilled Chicken at Boat Noodle Restaurant

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

Boat Noodle Restaurant is located on a street corner along Street 63 in Phnom Penh’s vibrant BKK1 neighborhood. Out front, they’re grilling chicken on a charcoal grill, and the fragrant smoke drifts across the sidewalk, making it almost impossible to just walk past. It was the grilled chicken that drew me inside the first time, and it is still the reason I keep coming back.

The menu is divided into two sections. One is Thai, with classics such as tom yum kung, som tam, and of course boat noodles. The other is Khmer, featuring traditional Cambodian dishes. It is a cozy mix, and there is something for everyone. The Thai boat noodles, which gave the restaurant its name, are perfectly fine, but they are rarely what I order. For me, it is all about the chicken.

The grilled chicken costs only a couple of dollars, and it tastes fantastic. The meat is tender and juicy, the skin crisp, and it is served with a delicious garlic and chili sauce for dipping. The sauce reminds me a little of the one Kanary’s mom makes, and it is particularly good with sticky rice, which I usually order alongside the chicken.

When I eat out in Phnom Penh, I almost always order a lime soda. Freshly squeezed lime juice, a bit of simple syrup, and sparkling water, which you mix yourself to get the flavor and the sweetness just the way you like it. It is a wonderful drink in the heat and pairs really well with the grilled chicken.

If I am very hungry, I will also order one of the salads on the side, but often a piece of chicken and a portion of rice are enough to leave me comfortably full.

I have shown up a couple of times only to find the coals cold, and once or twice they had already sold out for the day, so make sure you visit Boat Noodle Restaurant when they’re grilling chicken. The rest of the menu is solid, but it is the grilled chicken that truly stands out.

Boat Noodle Restaurent (Siam) I, 184, St Preah Trasak Paem St. (63), Phnom Penh 12302, Cambodia

March 1, 2026

citizenM New York Bowery – Compact Comfort in the Heart of Downtown

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

We checked in at citizenM New York Bowery the same day the snowstorm hit the city. I was the one who chose the hotel, primarily because of the location. Bowery sits right where SoHo, Little Italy, Chinatown, and the Lower East Side merge into one another, and you can walk everywhere. Restaurants, coffee shops, small specialty stores, and galleries are all just minutes away, and it is difficult to find a better place to stay downtown.

I had seen that the rooms were very small, but the plan was that we would only sleep there and otherwise spend most of the day out. What I had not fully taken into account was that, because of the snowstorm, we ended up spending significantly more time in the room than planned.

The room is designed the way you know it from citizenM hotels around the world. One of the brand’s signatures is the wall to wall bed placed directly against the window, stretching across the entire width of the room. The bed is large, and comfortable, and without question the most important piece of furniture in the room, because once it has claimed its share of square footage, there is not much left.

There is a small desk along the wall where I had no problem sitting with my MacBook and working. It is simple and functional, and even though space is limited, it does not feel claustrophobic as long as you keep things tidy. The entire room is controlled via a small iPad, where you can adjust the brightness and color of the lights, close the curtains and blackout blinds, control the TV with Chromecast, and choose how much housekeeping you want. When the system works, it feels intuitive and elegant, but a couple of times during our stay the technology froze, and in those moments you suddenly realize how comforting a regular light switch can be.

The bathroom is separated from the rest of the room by a glass wall, and the door did not close completely tight. I know that glass walls and bathrooms are a solution many newer hotels use, but I prefer a bathroom with a proper wall and a bit of privacy. It may not matter much if you are traveling alone, but it is something you definitely notice when you are two people sharing a room.

There was a hair dryer that we never managed to get working, but since we did not actually need it, it was not a major issue. The small refrigerator, on the other hand, turned out to be practical. Before the snow really started coming down, we had stopped by Whole Foods to pick up a small emergency stash in the form of a baguette, prosciutto, and a good cheese, which we enjoyed as an improvised lunch Monday while the snow still covered the streets outside.

In the bathroom, there were two kinds of shampoo, AM and PM. The AM version had a fresh, citrus scent that I really liked. There was also conditioner, hand soap, and large, soft towels. I was less impressed with the body lotion which had a weird smell but overall the products felt well considered and of good quality.

One stair down from the entrance is the hotel’s large communal area, which functions as lobby, workspace, and lounge all in one. The clientele is generally younger, and many guests travel alone, which creates a relaxed and informal atmosphere. There are sofas, long tables, smaller cafe tables, and a bar where you can order food and drinks. There is also a tap with filtered water, both still and sparkling, so you can fill a bottle and bring it upstairs to your room, which was a small detail we really appreciated.

By Sunday evening, the snowstorm had fully set in. We went down to Chinatown to see if we could find an open restaurant, but everything was closed, so we returned to the hotel and ordered chicken nachos at the bar. They were not the best nachos in the world, but perfectly fine for a snowed-in meal.

The hotel also has a rooftop bar, cloudM, with fantastic views over Manhattan. There is a small outdoor area up there, which was closed because of the weather, but the staff had built two snowmen that stood there adding a bit of winter cheer. It was fairly quiet when we visited, but I can imagine it being a lovely bar in the summer.

citizenM New York Bowery is not a hotel you choose for spacious rooms or classic luxury. You choose it for the great location, the really good bed, and the informal, modern atmosphere. For solo travelers, it is close to the perfect hotel in New York City, and for two people it can work as well, as long as you are prepared to live compactly and prioritize location over square footage.

citizenM New York Bowery, 189 Bowery, New York, NY 10002, United States

citizenM New York Bowery

If you’re looking for a smart, well located base in downtown Manhattan, citizenM Bowery is a solid choice. The rooms are compact but thoughtfully designed, the beds are excellent, and you’re within walking distance of some of the best neighborhoods in New York.

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February 27, 2026

Raku – My favorite spot for udon in New York City

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

There are plenty of Japanese restaurants in New York, but when I’m craving a proper bowl of udon, I always end up at Raku, because their udon is amazing. The last time Steve and I went, we started with Otsumami, a small selection of cold Japanese snacks. One was ohitashi, blanched spinach served in a light dashi and soy sauce. The other was hijiki, a seaweed salad made with hijiki seaweed. Both were nice and perfect for nibbling while you wait for your noodles to arrive.

At Raku, I always order the Gyunan udon, which is their udon with beef. The noodles have that perfect springy texture, the broth is deeply flavorful, and the thinly sliced beef is tender and rich. The first time I came to Raku, years ago, I ordered Gyunan, and that bowl made such an impression that I have never felt tempted to try any of the other udon bowls on the menu. I stick with Gyunan every single time.

It was Steve’s first visit, so of course I recommended that he tried the Gyunan udon. He did, and now he’s hooked too. He added chili oil on the side, which gave his broth a nice kick.

I’ve had the soba pudding for dessert before, and it’s excellent, but this time we were too full to even consider it. Though when the check arrived, it came with a small plate with two frozen grapes. A sweet and thoughtful little ending to the meal, even without dessert. I love details like that.

Raku doesn’t take reservations. You just show up, put your name on the list, and hope the wait isn’t too long. We were told it would be about an hour, so we walked over to Murray’s Cheese to pass the time. We had barely sat down before we got the message that our table was ready. Other times I’ve been, the wait has been anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes.

Raku, 48 MacDougal St, New York, NY 10012

February 20, 2026

Puerto Rico: Cafetería Mallorca in Old San Juan

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

Cafetería Mallorca is a classic café in Old San Juan. The atmosphere is lively but relaxed, with locals sitting side by side with the few tourists who have wandered in, tempted by the trays of bread and pastries in the window. The best seats are at the counter. From there, you can follow everything that’s going on, and the staff usually have time for a quick chat.

Cafetería Mallorca is known for its Mallorcas, a lightly sweet, fluffy yeast bun inspired by the Spanish ensaïmada from Mallorca in the Balearic Islands. The ensaïmada was brought to Puerto Rico by Spanish immigrants during the colonial period, and over time the recipe was adapted to local tastes. It gradually developed into the soft Mallorca we know today, which is also used as sandwich bread with fillings like ham, cheese, and egg. At Cafetería Mallorca, there’s an entire section of the menu dedicated to different Mallorca sandwiches.

There are plenty of options to choose from, so I asked the man behind the counter which one was the most popular. Without hesitation, he said the Mallorca con Jamón y Suizo, with ham and Swiss cheese, was a favorite. That’s what I ordered. Steve went for the Mallorca con Jamón, queso y huevo, with ham, cheese, and egg. We were both slightly skeptical about how a sweet bun dusted with powdered sugar would work with ham and cheese, but it turned out to be really good.

The fried egg in Steve’s sandwich was delicious, but the Swiss cheese in mine was better than the cheese in his sandwich. If you stop by Cafetería Mallorca, I would therefore recommend ordering the sandwich Steve had, Mallorca con Jamón, queso y huevo, but with Swiss cheese instead. That would be my ideal version.

There are no fancy espresso machines at Cafetería Mallorca, so we each ordered a café con leche, which was served in a small styrofoam cup. With a little sugar, it tasted just right.

In addition to Mallorcas, Cafetería Mallorca also offers a large selection of cakes and pastries along with other breakfast dishes. There are also lunch options on the menu, but there’s no doubt that the Mallorcas are the main attraction.

Cafetería Mallorca, 300 C. de San Francisco, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico

February 16, 2026

Puerto Rico: El Yunque – A Day Trip Into the Rainforest

by Mitzie Mee - Sanne

El Yunque was one of the places we had decided to visit before we even arrived in Puerto Rico. Less than an hour from San Juan, it is the only tropical rainforest in the US National Forest system. El Yunque National Forest covers roughly 27,000 acres of mountainous terrain, shaped by high humidity and frequent rainfall that sustain dense vegetation, rivers, and waterfalls. As the elevation rises, the climate and the landscape gradually change.

We arrived at El Yunque just after midday and were curious to see whether there would still be parking available. Luckily, there was. We found a spot close to where the El Yunque Trail begins, which meant we could walk straight into the rainforest from there. The trail runs through dense vegetation, but in several places the forest opens up, offering views across a landscape that is intensely green and lush.

The trail leading all the way up to El Yunque Peak, one of the highest points in the area, was closed that day. After walking about a mile, we turned around and headed back the same way we had come. Before our visit, we had checked that there are no venomous snakes or giant spiders in El Yunque, and on our short hike, we did not see any animals along the way, apart from a small lizard. Though we heard plenty of birds and various jungle sounds as we walked.

Despite the humidity, the trail was relatively dry and easy to walk. I have read that it can often be muddy and slippery, but the conditions were very good the day we were there. We were wearing regular sneakers, which worked perfectly well for the short distance we walked. That said, hiking shoes with ankle support are always an advantage, especially if the trails are wet or if you are planning a longer hike.

On our way back toward the entrance of El Yunque, we stopped at Baño Grande, a large artificial swimming pool built in the 1930s as part of a recreational project in the area. Swimming is no longer allowed, but the pool is beautifully set among green hillsides and dense vegetation and is a great spot for a short stop and photos.

Directly across the road from Baño Grande is La Coca Falls. The waterfall drops straight down the rock face close to the road, and while it is not particularly large, it is very pretty and definitely worth a quick photo stop.

It was a lovely day with bright sunshine and good hiking conditions. We had plenty of water with us and took things at an easy pace. Guided tours are available in El Yunque, but the rainforest is easy to visit on your own and does not require much planning. We enjoyed being able to move around at our own speed and decide for ourselves how far we wanted to go and what we wanted to see.

Getting to El Yunque

We drove from San Juan to El Yunque in our rental car. The fastest route is to head east on PR-26, which continues onto PR-66. PR-66 is a toll road and the quickest way to get there. When PR-66 ends near Río Grande, you continue briefly on PR-3 and then turn onto PR-191, which leads directly into the rainforest. If you want to avoid toll roads, you can stay on PR-3 the entire way, but the drive will take longer.

The drive from San Juan to El Yunque usually takes around 35 to 45 minutes. For us, it took a bit longer since we stopped for gas, picked up supplies, and had breakfast at Coffee at the View along the way.

The final part of the drive along PR-191 winds up into the mountains, with hairpin turns and a few narrow sections. There was quite a bit of roadwork when we visited, but there are guardrails and good road conditions, and traffic moves calmly. I would not hesitate to drive up there again.

You can also book guided tours with transportation from San Juan if you prefer not to drive yourself.

I would not recommend taking Uber, as ride share drivers are not allowed to pick up passengers inside the park. In practice, this means they can only pick up at the entrance, which is far from where most of the hiking trails start and end.

Practical tips for visiting El Yunque

There are very limited options for buying food inside the park. We had breakfast beforehand and brought snacks with us.

Bring plenty of water. It is hot and humid, and you will get thirsty faster than you expect.

There are few trash cans along the trails, so take your trash with you out of the national forest whenever possible.

There are no fixed opening hours for the rainforest and the trails. Visitors are allowed in the park during daylight hours, but not after dark. This is also why it is generally recommended to arrive relatively early, especially if you plan to go on longer hikes.

I would recommend arriving early in the morning, particularly during high season and on weekends, when parking fills up quickly. We were lucky to find a spot even though we arrived later in the day, but if I were going again, I would aim to be there around 8:00 a.m.

Cell service is unreliable inside the rainforest. Take a photo of the trail map before you start hiking.

It is free to visit El Yunque National Forest. There is a visitor center, El Portal de El Yunque Rainforest Center, where you can learn more about the rainforest. Admission is $8 as of 2026.

If you plan to swim in any of the pools, rivers, or waterfalls, remember to bring a swimsuit, a change of clothes, and a towel.

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February 9, 2026