After spending the morning at Ocean Park Beach, we had lunch at Molini’s, a small, family run restaurant. The handwritten menu hung in a frame on the wall, and the owner came over to our table to walk us through every single dish, speaking with the calm confidence of someone who truly stands behind what he serves.
We were curious about Gandinga guisada, but this was where he gently stopped us. Gandinga is a traditional stew made with organ meats, typically liver and heart, cut into small cubes and simmered in a flavorful sauce with sofrito and potatoes. It is rustic cooking with deep roots in a food culture that uses the whole animal. The owner told us it was one of his favorite dishes, but if we were not fans of organ meats, we should choose something else. Steve is not particularly fond of liver, so we appreciated the honesty and moved on.
Instead, we ordered Sancocho, a hearty Puerto Rican soup or stew with meat, vegetables, and corn that had clearly been simmering for a long time. The flavor was deep and rounded, with the kind of quiet richness that only comes from hours on the stove.
We also ordered Arroz con Pollo, rice with chicken, served with the distinctive yellow rice you see everywhere on the island. The color usually comes from annatto, also known as achiote, small seeds infused in oil that give both a warm golden hue and a mild, slightly nutty flavor.
The rice was excellent and clearly flavored with sofrito, the aromatic base of onion, garlic, peppers, and herbs that forms the backbone of so many Puerto Rican dishes. On the plate were also fried plantains and a big slice of perfectly ripe avocado.
On the side, we were served a small bowl of beans that nearly stole the show, at least for me. The flavor was intense and layered, and once again it was the sofrito that gave depth. It is fascinating how much character such a simple dish can have when it is made properly. Honestly, some of the best beans I have ever had.
The portions were generous and, with a flight to catch, we skipped dessert. Not long after, we were in a taxi on our way to the airport, still tasting yellow rice, sofrito, and sweet fried plantains. It was a wonderful, flavorful way to say goodbye to Puerto Rico.
Molini’s, 1859 Puerto Rico, 1857 C. Loíza, San Juan, 00911, Puerto Rico
