I love the hot and sour taste of a good tom yum soup, and the one at Pe Aor (P’Aor) is one of the best you’ll find in Bangkok (and probably in the entire world). The signature dish at Pe Aor is the lobster tom yum, which is a big bowl loaded with lobster, crab, squid, mussels and egg, and there’s more than enough for two persons to share. I’ve had the lobster tom yum a couple of times, and it’s delicious, but I actually like the regular tom yum kung (tom yum with shrimp) even better, so this is what I usually order at Pe Aor.
Pe Aor is located down the alley between Petchaburi Soi 5 and Soi 7. The restaurant is a very popular spot among local tom yum fans as well as the occasional traveling foodies, so even though you will not find a lot of tourists in the area, Pe Aor is always really busy. The tiny restaurant is nice and clean, and some might even call it hip. In front of the restaurant, there’s a big, simmering pot of tom yum broth. This is the open-air kitchen, and this is where the food is made. The secret ingredient in P’Aor’s legendary tom yum soup is all the goo from the shrimp heads. It might not sound very appetizing, but this is what gives the soup the rich, irresistible flavor and the creamy consistency. Tom yum is typically served with a bowl of rice on the side, but at P’Aor, they throw in noodles in the soup, so even though the portion isn’t very big, the noodles make the dish very filling, even without rice on the side.
Petchaburi Soi 5 is among the best spots in Bangkok for street food, so when you’re done with your tom yum soup, head out for dessert at one of the street vendors. There’s a really nice khanom krok (coconut cream dumplings) stall at the corner between the alley, where Pe Aor is located, and Petchaburi Soi 5.
Finding Pe Aor can be a bit tricky so here’s a quick guide: From Ratchathewi BTS station, walk a short distance on Phayathai Road towards Victory Monument and Phaya Thai station. Turn left down the big Petchaburi Road and walk approximately 300m until you see a footbridge. Walk over that footbridge to the other side of the road. Then walk back a short distance along Petchaburi Road in the same direction that you came from, and you’ll find Petchaburi Soi 5. Walk down Petchaburi Soi 5 approximately 150m and turn right, when you reach the corner, where there’s a vendor selling sticky rice with mango. Pe Aor is almost halfway down the alley (there are also several other restaurants there). There’s only a small sign outside saying Pe Aor, but everybody in the area knows the place, so if in doubt, just ask.
P’Aor, The alley between Petchaburi Soi 5 and 7, Ratchathewi, Bangkok, Tel: +66 2612 9013, Hours: Tue-Sun: 10:00-21:00, Monday closed, Nearest BTS: Ratchathewi
