We went on a day trip to Belém, and our first stop was, of course, Pastéis de Belém, home to the original version of Lisbon’s famous custard tart. Pastéis de Belém and pastel de nata are the same kind of small custard tart, but the name Pastéis de Belém can only be used for the ones made at this bakery.
We went on a day trip to Belém, and our first stop was, of course, Pastéis de Belém, where Lisbon’s famous pastel de nata originated. Pastéis de Belém and pastel de nata are the same kind of small custard tart, but the name Pastéis de Belém can only be used for the ones made at this bakery.
The recipe is said to date back to the 1800s and is still kept secret. The story begins at the nearby Jerónimos Monastery, where monks used egg whites to starch their garments. That left them with a lot of leftover yolks, which they started using in pastries. When the monastery closed in the 1830s, the recipe was passed on, and the bakery that would later become known as Pastéis de Belém opened in 1837. Production has remained at the same location ever since.
When we arrived, there were lines outside for both takeaway and the café, but both moved quickly, so we went for the café. It was nice to sit down and have a coffee with our pastries, and the prices were very reasonable.
Inside, the café is much larger than it looks from the outside. The space is divided into several smaller rooms, almost like a maze. It’s not particularly cozy or beautiful, but it works, and it handles the steady flow of Pastéis de Belém-hungry visitors efficiently.
In the room where we were seated, there was a window looking into the bakery. You could see trays filled with freshly baked Pastéis de Belém lined up and ready to be packed.
We ordered one each, served warm with cinnamon and powdered sugar on the side to sprinkle over. The crust was crisp and flaky, and the filling soft, sweet, and creamy.
The custard might have been slightly smoother, and the crust more consistently crisp than the ones we had tried elsewhere, but otherwise, I wouldn’t say there was a dramatic difference. They tasted really good, and we quickly regretted not ordering more than one each. You can also buy boxes of Pastéis de Belém to take with you if you think you might want more later.
We also tried a queque, a small, simple cake, a bit like a muffin but slightly more dense. It was a little underwhelming compared to the pastries, so if you visit Pastéis de Belém, I would definitely recommend sticking to the Pastéis de Belém.
Pastéis de Belém is very touristy, but the prices are reasonable and the pastries are excellent, so if you’re in Lisbon, don’t even think about skipping a visit to Pastéis de Belém.
Pastéis de Belém, R. de Belém 84 92, 1300-085 Lisboa